Friday, April 15, 2011

Paradigm

In the summer of 1977-June, to be exact-I went in to the C.R. Anthony's store in Levelland, Texas to buy a pair of suspenders. Seems everyone was holding up their Sedgefield's with a pair of two inch wide multicolored orange red and yellow braces, and I didn't have any. So, with my first paycheck from a summer job in hand, I headed in for a purchase. In the next few moments, my life was turned upside down, altered irrevocably, and sent careening wildly down a whole new track. You see, the sales clerk walked up to me and said "May I help you?" I was struck dumb. The salesclerk (who was amazing) turned out to be Tammy, the future Mrs. BMBMD. That is the very definition of a paradigm shift, and The Blue Damsel Lodge is sort of like that. In a heartbeat, I saw flyfishing in a whole new light.

Steve Hollenshed is a long-time fly-fishing guide on Lake Texoma, an Orvis-Endorsed Guide, and a master casting instructor. He organized this junket to the Treasure State, and served as expedition leader. The Blue Damsel, up Rock Creek Road from Clinton, Montana has been in business as a lodge for about nine years. With capacity for fourteen guests, the lodge sets new standards for comfort, elegance and beauty. Owner-Operator Keith Radenbaugh is a UT grad and native Texan. His staff of locals is headed by Josh, a master chef, carpenter, artist, and outdoorsman. His little sister Maren and her husband Troy complete the team, and went out of their way to make our stay as seemless and comfortable as possible. Two rambunctious Springers, Barley and Parker, round out the cadre. Being a lodge dog is not a bad gig.

First a word about the lodge itself. Set on the banks of Rock Creek, and built in true Montana style, the lodge is constructed of fourteen inch lodgepole pine logs, with soft yellow pine floors, sweeping views of the wilderness across the creek, and hand-crafted furniture. Many of the items of furniture, including the gorgeous work space in the kitchen, were designed and built by Josh himself. The living room is dominated by a stone fireplace, leather sofas, and antlers of various species. The five by five elk across from the fireplace, mounted on the skin which housed it, was taken by Josh on the back side of the neighboring mountain within walking distance of the lodge. The baths were clean and comfortable, appointed with hand painted tiles. There is a small Orvis Pro Shop in the daylight basement for last-minute items and souvenir shirts.

Now-on to the food. We were met at the door with club sandwiches for an afternoon snack, shown to our rooms, and within an hour, we were casting in the backyard creek. Not a bad start to the trip. That night, our first real meal, prepared by Josh, included pork loin and white bean remoulade. Desert was hand-cranked ginger ice cream with homemade chocolate sauce highlighted with a touch of orange. We knew we were in for a week of great eating. Scrambled eggs with cream cheese, baked bacon, designer french toast, rack of lamb, bananas foster-the list goes on and on. We did not want for fine dining. An open bar, generous wine list, and an assortment of beers were on hand for prescription strength muscle relaxants after a long day in the boat.

Oh, yeah-there was fishing. Missoula Montana is blessed to be right dab in the center of four major blue-ribbon fisheries, with countless opportunities for smaller, more intimate waterways. Our fishing was engineered by the incredible staff of Blackfoot River Outfitters in Missoula. Adam Spenner and James Johnsey were assigned to our group, and spared no effort to put us on fish. Their knowledge of the water and uncanny water-reading ability put us in position time after time to actually hook and land rainbows, browns, cutthroats, and various genetic subspecies of the cutbow variety. David and Steve accidentally landed the rare and endangered Bull Trout-it is against the law to target these fish, but what do you do when they insist on smashing your bug? Our trip coincided with the Skwala hatch, an early season stonefly, and we hit the dates right on the money. Mornings were spent with a dry dropper combo, afternoons were a dry fly delight with big honking skwala hatches. Day one was the Blackfoot, day two and three were various sections of the Bitterroot. The weather was what you expect for Montana in early April-highs of fifty, lows around thirty, some wind, a little rain, and even a few snow flurries. Unbelievable scenery, expert boat handling and water reading, a nice shore lunch with the guys every day, good conversation and great fishing-not a bad way to spend a day.

Now-the guys. I have known Steve and known of his work for several years. Spending a few days with him, though, revealed the quality of his character and the warmth of his personality. It was a joy to be with him. Although he was on vacation, too-he never forgot that he was an Orvis guide, and his attention to detail and concern for his fellow travelers was apparent to see. His casting stroke is a thing of beauty. My hope is that some of that elegance will rub off on me. David, from the Houston area, is a retired accountant for Exxon. Quiet and unassuming, he put on a daily clinic in precision casting, pulling one nice trout after another from the water. His fly was in the water, on target, and in "the zone" all day long. At the table, around the coffee pot, on the deck, around the fire-a great conversationalist, knowledgeable and open minded.

I shared a boat with Dutch for the three days. Dutch, it seems, was a real cowboy, played linebacker for Woody Hayes back in the day, tackled OJ Simpson in the '69 Rose Bowl, served a stint in the Marines, coached at Ohio State, and is now an executive in the NCAA Division IA Athletic Director's Association. Not a bad resume. Oh-and he could fish. His first love is spey-casting for steelhead, but he certainly acquitted himself (OJ Simpson reference?) admirably with the traditional fly rod. He kept his rod bent all day every day, and my ear bent with great stories of eskimos, marines, steelhead, and a real glimpse in to the the phenomenon that was Woodie Hayes. I could not have asked for a more gentle and interesting fishing partner.

So, there you have it. Another adventure in the books, a new standard set for quality experience, a stable-full of new and unforgettable friends, and photos to print it. I will include, at the bottom, links to the lodge, to Steve, to the outfitters, and to the 200 some odd photos I took on the trip. Thanks for reading-see you on the Tiny Waters.

http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f106/bmbmd/Blue%20Damsel-April%202011/
www.bluedamsel.com/
http://www.blackfootriver.com/
www.flywaterangling.com/